Everyone's talking about BIAB nails, which claim to be a healthier and longer-lasting alternative to gels - but what does a 'builder manicure' actually entail and is it right for you?
Undoubtedly one of the key 2024 nail trends that's taken TikTok by storm, BIAB promises a glossy finish to rival gels but with added staying power. It's also said to be healthier, as the 'builder' technique creates a hard-wearing layer over your natural nails, allowing them to grow underneath.
This is a strong claim, as most nail services fall into one of two camps: traditional polish - which offers superior care but can chip within days - or durable but potentially nail-knackering options like acrylic nails. So, if you're debating BIAB vs gels, I booked in to try BIAB and quizzed the experts on what to know before getting BIAB to bring you every detail...
What are BIAB nails?
"BIAB is a soak-off gel that is harder than regular gel polish," explains Laurie Nicholl, from Lacquered & Stripped Salon. "Builder In A Bottle - aka BIAB - is ideal for creating a strengthening barrier for natural nails," explains The Gel Bottle nail expert, Tiffany Abbigaile. This strengthening is one of the top benefits of BIAB over other treatments, allowing you to grow long, natural nails instead of having extensions applied.
Looks-wise, you can expect similarities with gels or Bio Sculpture nails; a smooth, plump nail, albeit in a limited range of colours. "BIAB usually comes in clear or colours like pink," says Nicholl. This is because, due to being a thicker gel, a UV lamp would struggle to penetrate pigment-rich BIAB shades and cure them properly.
However, if you love a bold shade you can layer up. "A gel nail colour can be painted directly on top of BIAB or you can use our BIAB shade range for beautiful nude nails," explains Abbigaile.
How is Biab applied?
I booked in with Gabi at Paint Nails to find out. If you've ever had salon Shellac or know how to do gel nails at home, a BIAB appointment will feel familiar. We began with cuticle work, buffing, and filing the nails into shape. Gabi then cleaned away dust with a nail brush and a wipe of acetone.
The BIAB process then began, in six steps:
- Base: A thin layer of BIAB was painted on and cured under a lamp.
- BIAB application: One nail at a time, a thick layer of BIAB colour is applied and worked all over the nail by fanning out the brush.
- BIAB shaping: A fine brush pushes the BIAB into a smooth, plump layer, before curing it under the lamp. Precision is essential to create and cure a perfect shape so it doesn't set unevenly.
- Filing: Once each BIAB nail has been created, my nail tech gently filed and buffed the top of the nails to create a smooth look.
- Finishing: The nail is cleaned to remove oils and a topcoat is applied and cured. I chose clear, but you can opt for a vibrant gel.
And how long does BIAB take to apply? Definitely longer than your usual gel mani - so I'd block out 1.5 hours to be safe.
How long does BIAB last?
Up to four weeks is standard, although they can last longer. I can report that a fortnight on (and with the addition of gel colour) my BIAB is still 100% perfect, with no chipping, or lifting. I've been opening cans of Coke worry-free and enjoying the satisfying 'clack' of drumming them on hard surfaces to communicate impatience when the occasion calls.
Wondering how to make BIAB last longer? You can have an infill at the base of your nail, which is a key benefit. "Since the product can be infilled, it reduces damage to the natural nail caused by removing gel polish," explains Nicholl. It's best to have BIAB infills every 3-4 weeks.
Pros & Cons of BIAB nails
Pros of BIAB:
- Strengthening: This treatment works to reinforce your nails, allowing them to grow without the risk of breaking.
- Longevity: BIAB can last upwards of four weeks, making it a great option if your nails suffer from frequent gel removal.
- Shine: If you're weighing up BIAB vs Gels, the former offers a glossier and plumper look that keeps its shine longer than gels.
Cons of BIAB:
- Limited colours: BIAB shades are mostly sheer and neutral, however, BIAB can be combined with bold gel shades.
- Cost: Biab tends to be pricier than gel. Expect to pay around £45 for your first set, the same again for infills and £15 for removal.
- Removal: The removal process can be arduous and you have to do it professionally to minimize the risk of nail damage.
Who are BIAB nails best for?
Luckily BIAB is adaptable for almost any nail shape and preference, and BIAB on short nails looks just as good as it does on long ones.
"BIAB is perfect for clients with weak natural nails who want to grow them out, or clients who want the strength of extensions without the length," explains Nicholl. "We recommend applying BIAB on natural nails to keep the natural length. For regular gel polish wearers, we recommend switching to BIAB if you find the gel removal process has weakened the natural nail."
However, if you don't fancy spending more than an hour in the salon, or If you get impatient and want to switch up your colour more often than once a month, it might be better to have regular gels instead.
IS BIAB bad for your nails?
In short, no. BIAB works to strengthen the natural nail and prevent breakage or weakness that is typically caused by acrylic extensions or naturally brittle nails. If you are a nail-biter, it will help you to kick that habit too, as BIAB is too strong to bite through. It also won't chip or break, so the nail underneath remains protected and can grow.
Can I do BIAB nails at home?
Technically you can, but only if you're extremely skilled...and patient! BIAB functions much like regular gel polish in terms of prep and method, so is painted on as a base coat that then has to be cured with a UV lamp.
However, due to BIAB's thick and gloopy texture, it can be difficult to control and apply correctly, which is where professional skill is needed. If you want to achieve the look of BIAB but lack a nail tech diploma you could use one of the best at-home gel nail kits to replicate the effect.
Our beauty team recommends...
RRP: £13.50
This light pink builder gel dries glossy and will give you a BIAB-like effect in one simple step. Follow with a top coat to set and enjoy long-lasting and strong nails.
RRP: £99.99
For the hard-wearing and glossy effect of BIAB, try a gel polish kit. With a lamp, polishes, and remover, this has everything you need.
RRP: £6.99
The key to any long-lasting nail polish, especially BIAB, is good nail prep. Buff the surface and tidy your cuticles with this handy set that will help your polish last.
How do you remove BIAB?
Unsurprisingly, every expert we spoke to stressed the importance of professional removal. "The bulk of the product needs to be removed first by either a nail file or an electric nail file. We will then soak a cotton pad with acetone, place it on the nail then wrap it with foil," explains Abbigaile. "After a few minutes, the foil can be removed one nail at a time, by gently scraping away the product with a metal cuticle pusher."
This doesn't sound like it would be the healthiest move for your natural nail (ask any expert is acetone bad for your nails and the reply is a resounding yes) but steps are taken to ameliorate any damage. "Once removed, we rehydrate the nail with cream and oil," explains Abbigaile.
Should I get BIAB or Gels?
woman&home Digital Beauty Editor, Aleesha Badkar, swapped her gel manicures for BIAB to help you compare: "My regular gel nail treatments started dulling, with scratches and regular chips and I also noticed that during gel breaks, my (usually very strong and fast-growing) nails would be weak and I would struggle to grow them past the fingertip.
"I thought BIAB might be worth a try, as it could be added to each time, without the need for removal and would hopefully give me a stronger and longer-lasting mani. And boy was I right. Five months of regular BIAB manicures left me with constantly faultless nails that boast shine, polish and a whole lot of strength. Not only was it strong enough to stop nails cracking after pesky door catches, but my nails actually grew faster than they would naturally.
"And while BIAB manicures don't require breaks thanks to the protein in the formula, I'm now a month into a break and my nails are making it towards a healthy length - unseen during a gel break for me. Call me an official BIAB convert."
BIAB vs Acrylic: which is better?
In terms of nail health, BIAB is a better alternative to acrylic as it provides increased strength without compromising the natural nail. When it comes to extensions, "BIAB can be applied on acrylic or UV Gel extensions; however, it won’t enhance the result of the extensions. With BIAB, you can do very short extensions, but they usually need to be done with tips, not sculpting," explains Nicholl.
Alternatively, if you want to work on growing your natural nails and eliminate extensions, BIAB could be the answer. If you are consistent with BIAB and get regular infills, it won't take long for your natural nails to grow long and healthy.
Where to find BIAB near you
If you like the sound of BIAB and are keen to try the service for yourself, it is currently available at selected The Gel Bottle partner salons nationwide. The best way to find one is to check your local nail bar on Treatwell (UK). We also round up the latest Treatwell discount codes each month to help you find money off your next appointment.
