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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Vic O'Sullivan

West Ireland’s magical landscape: where limestone rivers, Hollywood legend and Irish myth converge

Killary Fjord winds between brown Connemara hills and green patches under a cloudy sky, with roads visible along the banks
At Killary Fjord ‘the land suddenly opens into deep water, a glacial incision where the landscape’s buried secrets become visible’. Photograph: Andrea Pistolesi/Getty Images

‘If you take all these springs together in terms of flow, it’s by far the largest in Ireland, and one of the biggest systems in the world,” said Dr Benjamin Thébaudeau, geologist for the newly designated Unesco Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geopark in western Ireland.

Over a few days, I discovered that this massive system of limestone springs and caves is the engine that drives this landscape, in the same way as an underground train network powers a city. It’s a place where rivers disappear into limestone fissures and subterranean lakes, and where roads twist through drowned valleys beneath mountains shaped by fire and ice.

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