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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
World
Amanda Ulrich in Ocotillo Wells, California, with photographs by John Francis Peters

Welcome to Slowjamastan! The desert micronation with no Crocs and no taxes

man in green military style uniform with a loudspeaker in the desert
Randy Williams, the ‘sultan’ of the 11-acre micronation in the California desert. Photograph: John Francis Peters/The Guardian

One evening in late June, as the day’s heat settled to a temperate 102F (38C), a small crowd gathered on a desolate plot of land in the far reaches of the California desert.

An unrecognizable flag whipped high above a concrete square, where a weather-beaten wooden desk and phone booth had been strategically placed. A glassy security guard booth set in the dirt instructed visitors to “register with border police”, but inside stood only a stoic mannequin wearing a police uniform. Clouds of sand hung like fog on the horizon.

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