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Edinburgh Live
Edinburgh Live
National
Jacob Farr

We tried world renowned King of Feasts sandwich at Edinburgh's Polwarth Tavern

The Polwarth Tavern from the outside looks like any other local boozer in the capital, just a little more colourful.

After all, they do have their mural dedicated to the local community and hero key workers painted on the outdoor façade.

But, if you scratch beneath the surface, you realise that it is so much more than what first meets the eye.

This week, the Financial Times celebrated the pub as being home to King of Feasts sandwiches — which were heralded as one of the best in the world.

The boozer-come-eatery has welcomed chef Rob Casson, who founded King of Feasts after becoming unemployed around the time that the Covid-19 pandemic kicked off.

He found success whilst combining his fine dining experience with what he calls fun dining.

The culinary maestro creates unique packed sandwiches in the sub style, getting motivation and inspiration from the items available each week at the local butcher and green grocers, as well as sourcing the bread locally.

Rob had at first been a nomad, sharing his delicious sandwiches at various pop-up locations, but after meeting the Tavern owner Ben Prowse, a friendship and bond was formed that led to a permanent residency within the pub.

And since this fantastic partnership was formed, things have really taken off.

The pub has been named alongside the infamous Deli’s in New York, as well as Po Boy eateries in New Orleans — that is before mentioning the sandwich shops located in places like London and LA.

Their appearance in the top ten list places them next to sandwich royalty.

As aforementioned, each week Rob offers a new menu that is based upon the local produce he is able to muster up.

The result of this is a menu that is pun laden and has hits from start to finish.

First up on the menu this week was the ‘ITS…4:20 Somewhere’ which contains pimento cheese mac salad, spicy chicken nugs with fried chilli cheddar.

Then you have the ‘Forget Religion, I Found Cod’ which contains battered cod, American cheese, malt tartare, dill pickles and iceberg lettuce.

Next is the ‘Thai Your Cow Down’ which contains crispy green chilli beef, jalapeño and coriander relish, iceberg lettuce with coconut and green curry aioli.

Last — but by no means least — is the ‘Jacked Up Tostadas’, which contains two fried tostadas with crispy jackfruit tenders, jerk hot sauce, coconut and green curry aioli with onion and coriander.

And, in the name of research, I of course tried out the ‘Forget Religion, I Found Cod.’

Around six years ago, I went to Hamburg and visited the fish market that takes place early on a Sunday morning. I was told I must try the fish sandwiches that are served there by my cabbie. When I bit into one I instantly realised that Fillet’o’Fish style meals would be ruined forever, as how could anything ever compare.

That was until this afternoon.

The flavours combine together to offer an explosion of joy in your mouth. The malt tartare with the dill pickles are absolutely delicious, with the fish coming in the crispiest of batter.

The bread is soft, yet is robust enough to be able to handle its contents that are packed between the slices.

All in all, I left with mixed feelings. On the one hand I had just eaten the best sandwich I have ever tasted, and on the other they had destroyed sandwiches forever - no pretender will be able to easily displace the King of Feasts as the master of the wich!

It is no wonder that bar manager Scott McCardy has said that his kids are fuelled far too often off them - it is not difficult to see why.

Both Rob and Ben have been stopped since their sandwiches went viral through the FT, with the pair saying that the community support has been immense.

But this perfect partnership may never have come to fruition.

Ben shares that the beginning of the pandemic was a difficult time after losing best friend and co-owner Allan to a heart attack. Alongside this, he had to battle the restrictions and closures that had befallen the hospitality industry.

Although he adds that, through the darkness, the Tavern was able to take stock of their position and to reassess elements of the business that they may not have had time to do if they were open and operating without a break.

The inside decor was given a touch up and other elements were added to the bar. But the break also allowed for Ben and Rob to meet and eventually collaborate to great success.

Rob produces the sandwiches from Thursday to Saturday 3:00pm-9:30pm and on occasional Sundays 12-4 (keep an eye on Insta stories).

If you would like to follow the pub or to enquire about dining there then you can find them on Facebook here - it is worth noting that they do not accept bookings but only walk-ins.

You can follow Rob specifically on his Instagram channel here.

It is worth noting that the Polwarth Tavern is open seven days a week until midnight and is open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays.

Punters are welcome for all major sporting events and supporters of Atletico Madrid or Real Betis will be happy to hear that the pub is home to supporter clubs for both teams.

And remember folks, "It's not magic, it's just wich craft!"

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