Situated in Cardiff's Coal Exchange Hotel, Culley's Kitchen & Bar has a lot to live up to. Its surroundings boast a rich 134-year history. Hailed as one of the most significant buildings in Welsh history, it was constructed between 1884 and 1886 and was once a hive of businessmen trading in the city. In 1904, the first £1m cheque was signed there and, in 1913, it welcomed Captain Scott and his team before they boarded the the Terra Nova and set sail on their ill-fated Antarctic expedition. Granted Grade-II listed building status in 1975, it's more recently been used as a music venue and in 2017 underwent a stunning transformation into 200-room hotel.
The restaurant was launched in 2019, named R P Culley and Co at the time - a nod to Richard Palethorpe Culley, a local philanthropist and entrepreneur who played a huge part in Wales' coal industry. The pandemic proved pivotal for the venue: it returned from the lockdown in 2020 with a more modern sheen, rebranding itself as Culley's Kitchen & Bar. Since then, it's earned itself the title of Butetown's best-rated restaurant and comes in at number 27 on TripAdvisor's rankings of restaurants in Cardiff overall.
When I go to visit Culley's at lunchtime, I'm disappointed I won't be able to enjoy the original venue due to maintenance works. But the temporary dining area does not detract from my experience: I'm spoiled with a spot in the hotel's sprawling and majestic Grand Hall. Its deep mahogany walls glint in the light from the host of chandeliers with sparkle overhead. Paintings and photos celebrating the building's history hang proudly in a balcony that encircles the room. Pop music tinkles through speakers, which feels slightly at odds with the grandeur, but it dilutes any pretension. You can read all our food and drink news here.
