Situated in Cardiff's Coal Exchange Hotel, Culley's Kitchen & Bar has a lot to live up to. Its surroundings boast a rich 134-year history. Hailed as one of the most significant buildings in Welsh history, it was constructed between 1884 and 1886 and was once a hive of businessmen trading in the city. In 1904, the first £1m cheque was signed there and, in 1913, it welcomed Captain Scott and his team before they boarded the the Terra Nova and set sail on their ill-fated Antarctic expedition. Granted Grade-II listed building status in 1975, it's more recently been used as a music venue and in 2017 underwent a stunning transformation into 200-room hotel.
The restaurant was launched in 2019, named R P Culley and Co at the time - a nod to Richard Palethorpe Culley, a local philanthropist and entrepreneur who played a huge part in Wales' coal industry. The pandemic proved pivotal for the venue: it returned from the lockdown in 2020 with a more modern sheen, rebranding itself as Culley's Kitchen & Bar. Since then, it's earned itself the title of Butetown's best-rated restaurant and comes in at number 27 on TripAdvisor's rankings of restaurants in Cardiff overall.
When I go to visit Culley's at lunchtime, I'm disappointed I won't be able to enjoy the original venue due to maintenance works. But the temporary dining area does not detract from my experience: I'm spoiled with a spot in the hotel's sprawling and majestic Grand Hall. Its deep mahogany walls glint in the light from the host of chandeliers with sparkle overhead. Paintings and photos celebrating the building's history hang proudly in a balcony that encircles the room. Pop music tinkles through speakers, which feels slightly at odds with the grandeur, but it dilutes any pretension. You can read all our food and drink news here.
Though this is certainly an afternoon of fine dining, there is nothing pompous or ostentatious about Culley's. The service immediately feels genuine and friendly, and is probably some of the best I've received in a restaurant in the city. A friendly waitress gives me a big bottle of cold still water as I scan through the extensive lunch menu. I'm spoilt for choice: there are sandwiches (such as a tandoori chicken flatbread with tzatziki and pickles), classic dishes (such as fish and chips), grilled meats (including swordfish), sides (such as parmesan truffle fries) and even afternoon tea.
I'm tempted by many of these offerings, especially as Culley's prides itself on its seasonal and local products. In the end I settle for what appears to be the best value option: three courses from the set menu for just £22 (the other option being two courses for £18). This includes dishes that sound a little fancier, like chicken pate, smoked salmon risotto, and sorbet. The drinks menu also has a lot to offer, and I'm enticed by a mocktail: a virgin strawberry martini - a concoction of alcohol free gin, strawberry and lemon, costing £4.50.
I spy the martini long before it arrives at my table and my anticipation builds as waitress treads slowly to my table, the drink teetering on the tray. It's a bright, fiery red, a welcome pop of colour in the dark hall. But the taste isn't quite as striking, and doesn't entirely fulfil my expectations. For a beverage that lists gin and lemon as two of its key ingredients, it's very mellow and I was looking forward to more zing. The strawberry flavour is quite artificial-tasting, but its one saving grace is that it feels nostalgic. At first, I can't quite put my finger on it, but then it occurs to me it tastes exactly like I would imagine Haribo's famous strawberry sweets would if they were whizzed up in a blender. It isn't unpleasant, but, while I appreciate the hotel is steeped in history, I didn't anticipate that I would be transported back in time to my own childhood.
My starter of tomato and mozzarella with pesto also doesn't quite impress. Again, it's not offensive in any way: the slices of tomato are fresh and firm, counterbalanced nicely by the smooth and soft cheese, with a smattering of greens on top. The pesto is fresh and light, but isn't as flavoursome (or as much) as I would have liked - especially as the other elements of the meal are pretty plain and there is no other seasoning.
My main is an interesting concept, a mix of ingredients I haven't had before: purple gnocchi with butternut squash puree and a grilled vegetable salad. Throughout the short wait for the meal, thoughts of silky gnocchi swimming in a light sauce whet my appetite. But what I end up getting is quite the opposite and a bit of a shock to the system. Dark, almost burnt-looking gnocchi sit atop the puree, with the vegetables hidden in between. I tentatively try the small dumplings, which seem to have been deep-fried, something which wasn't pointed out on the menu; they're quite tasty, but I'm distracted by the fact they're a little chewy and overcooked.
The rest of the dish, however, is sublime. The butternut squash puree is smooth and adds a welcome moistness to the gnocchi. It's also deliciously spiced and feels rather autumnal. The vegetables comprise peppers and courgettes. The former are sweet and soft; the latter are, unexpectedly, the best part of the dish and, in fact, the entire three-course meal. As a former courgette-sceptic, I've been converted and finally believe that, yes, they can be tasty. The kitchen's decision to chargrill them with a lemony and peppery seasoning is genius, and the bland vegetable has been elevated to something divine.
The sticky toffee pudding is a perfect end to the meal. It's a no-frills affair that doesn't try to complicate or one-up the traditional recipe we all know and love. And it does it very well: moist, sweet sponge and a glug of oozing toffee sauce. The scoop of vanilla ice-cream on the side is rich and smooth. There is what appears to be a biscuit crumble underneath the ice-cream, which adds a nice little crunch to the dish.
Lunch at Culley's is full of surprises; some are welcome, but admittedly others just miss the mark. But it lives up to its esteemed surroundings and its title as Butetown's best food spot - most of all when it comes to its superb tableside service, which never falters. Not to mention the affordability of the lunch menu, especially the set menu - my total spend equates to just over £7 per course, which makes it an attractive option for anyone looking to experience a bit of fine dining on a budget, but it just needs to make sure those marks are hit.
