I prefer to avoid puddings that need prep during the main course. Can a clafoutis or sticky toffee mix sit on the side for a while, and if not, what can I make instead?
Alison, Lindfield, West Sussex
“The golden rule is to have it all done before people cross the threshold,” says Jeremy Lee, the undisputed king of puddings, and chef/co-proprietor of Quo Vadis in London. That’s not to say you can’t have warm, rib-sticking desserts, though. Sticky toffee pudding is indeed a splendid shout because, Lee says, you can cook it in advance, then “all you have to do is put it back in the oven for five minutes [before serving] ,to get it bubbling again”. And you can have your clafoutis, too, says Florence Stanton, author of Part-Time Baker (out in March). “Prep the batter up to a day before, cover and leave in the fridge, then bring it to room temperature before baking,” she advises.
Another classic pud that never loses its allure is bread-and-butter pudding, which, Lee notes, is “the perfect excuse to use that panettone that has been haunting you since Christmas”. He follows Alastair Little’s “genius” recipe, which is scented with orange and vanilla. “Get this gorgeous, creamy delight ready first thing in the morning, leave to stand for a couple of hours, then bake for an hour until golden and crusted.” Pop it to one side while you make merry, then serve just warm with cream, “plus a jug of custard, just to be sure, and Bob’s your uncle”.
Pie also feels all kinds of right for February entertaining, and that, too, can be good to go before anyone arrives. “Put the [made] pie in the fridge to keep the pastry cold, then towards the end of the main, put it in the oven for 20-25 minutes,” Stanton says. “That’s enough time to get another bottle of wine open.” Lee, on the other hand, is a devoted fan of steamed suet puddings, and a spiced marmalade number would be just the ticket: “It’s a great big hug on a plate, and you can find the recipe in a certain book [that would be Lee’s Cooking: Simply And Well, For One or Many] – just saying.” Stem ginger and spices, such as allspice, mace, cinnamon, and ground ginger, keep things bold, plus a generous amount of Paddington’s favourite spread on the bottom. “Get that on first thing and let it bubble through the day, then all you’ve got to do is lift it out of its pan, unwrap and, with the greatest care, flip it on to a plate.” Again, jugs of custard and bowls of cream will seal the deal.
You should just steer clear of puddings that rise, such as souffles or molten (or lava) cakes. It also comes down to any leavening agents (ie baking powder or soda), Stanton says, because they’ll start reacting upon meeting wet ingredients, so “you can’t let them rest”.
The same cannot be said about trifles, which Lee wisely throws into the mix. Yes, it’s cold, but it more than makes up for that with layers of sponge cake and fruit, custard and cream. “Once it’s made, it’s in-the-fridge-ready,” he adds, but it’s often preferable to do this the day before. “And it really is gorgeous!”
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