Jonathan Goldsmith has some of his wine shipped in from the southern Italian island of Ischia, his mozzarella di bufala comes from the Caserta province just north of Naples.
When he sees that a family is about to welcome a new baby, he presents a bottle of Prosecco to the expectant mother — to drink at a later date, of course.
And when he’s not in Italy, Goldsmith, 68, is in the kitchen or flitting from table to table in his Ravenswood pizzeria, Spacca Napoli, most days of the week.
It’s that dedication to the art of pizza making that has earned Spacca Napoli a spot on the “Guide to Best Pizzerias in the World” for 2023. Goldsmith’s pizzeria is ranked 93 out of 100.
Spacca Napoli, which opened in 2006, is the only pizzeria from Illinois on the list.
“It’s always wonderful to be recognized — period. ...,” Goldsmith said this week. “I’m always honored.”
It’s not the first honor for Spacca Napoli. Among others, the restaurant was listed as “recommended” in the 2015 Michelin Guide.
Not surprisingly, the 2023 list is heavy on winners from Italy, including the world’s No. 1 pizzeria: Diego Vitagliano Pizzeria, with four locations — including three in Italy and one in Qatar. But there are also pizzerias from Beijing and Tokyo that make it into the top 10.
The folks at the oddly named “50 Top Pizza World” (given that it’s a listing of 100 pizzerias) say the judging is done anonymously by “inspectors” who evaluate an “enormous” number of pizzas annually, paying close attention to “customer care,” but with the quality of the ingredients the most important consideration.
Goldsmith, who grew up in New York, likes to say of himself: “Sangue Russo, piedi Americani e cuore Italiano (“Russian blood, American feet, Italian heart”).
He travels to Italy at least three times a year, researching, meeting with other pizza makers and wine makers. He was heading back to Naples this week.
“My producers have become beloved friends,” he said.
He and his wife, the artist Ginny Sykes, are on the lookout for a house in Italy.
But Goldsmith says he’s not ready to say goodbye to Spacca Napoli and Chicago, a place he has called home since 1978.
