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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Simon Calder

Visiting the Wagah border crossing – India’s tribute to Checkpoint Charlie

Cross purposes: Simon Calder at India’s border stadium at the Wagah frontier, facing west towards Pakistan - (Charlotte Hindle)

Mahatma Gandhi is smiling. The bespectacled father of Indian independence beams across a multi-tiered arena. The December sun, low in a clear blue sky, heightens the power of the image. The banner beneath reads: “India’s first line of defence.”

The great cities of Amritsar in India and Lahore in Pakistan are just 30 miles apart. They are connected by the Grand Trunk Road, Asia’s “main street” – but agonisingly divided by geopolitics.

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