KAPA’A, Kauai, Hawaii — In a quiet clearing on the lush, tropical fruit and chocolate plantation of Lydgate Farms, we take our first bite of tangy, mucilaginous cacao fruit. The creamy white pulp could have become an epic sour candy flavor had it not been overshadowed two millennia ago by its seed: the source of rich, decadent chocolate.
Here, on this 46-acre farm in eastern Kauai, between Sleeping Giant and Mount Wai’ale’ale, the fifth generation of the Lydgate family grows the cacao and turns it into award-winning, single-estate chocolate bars. The Paris-based Cocoa of Excellence Programme, which recognizes excellence in cacao farming and premium chocolate, has twice named Lydgate Farms to its list of 50 best chocolates, first in 2017 and again in 2021. Maui Ku’ia Estate, a cacao farm nestled in the mountains of West Maui, also made the list in 2021.
Such prestige usually goes to the Valrhonas of the world. But, Hawaii is joining their leagues. It is the only state where cacao grows fruitfully — and the industry is growing. In addition to Maui Ku’ia Estate, there are cacao farms on the Big Island, including Lavaloha and Honoka’a Chocolate Co., both in Hilo.
