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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Sam Meadows in Buenos Aires, Argentina

‘Vegetarianism is still seen as a bit odd’: so why is Argentina’s appetite for beef on the wane?

A chef cooking meat on a parrilla or grill in the kitchen of a restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina.
Eating steak grilled on a parilla, or outside on an asado (barbecue) is a national tradition, and Argentinian restaurants typically offer a huge variety of grilled meat. Photograph: Jon G Fuller/VWPics/Alamy

The billboard in Buenos Aires shows a piglet standing forlornly by a butcher’s fridge. “Dónde están mis amigos?” – “where are my friends?” – it reads. Such adverts have sprung up around Argentina’s capital as part of a concerted campaign by the animal rights groups Animal Save Movement and Voicot, an Argentinian organisation, to promote vegan diets.

But in Argentina, eating meat – and in particular a steak – prepared on the asado, or barbecue, is a cherished national tradition. The typical Argentinian restaurant is a parilla – a steakhouse that can serve a bewildering variety of grilled meat, with some menus offering beef 30 different ways.

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