The thing about quiches and tarts, says Kitty Coles, author of Make More with Less, is people are set in their ways. “Quiche really can be whatever you want it to be, so don’t worry about following exact rules.” That said, a rough formula is always helpful. “It’s some sort of creamy thing [creme fraiche, cream cheese, ricotta, say], plus an egg or two [depending on the size of the quiche/tart you’re making], plus any ingredients you have in your fridge.” That could simply be herbs (parsley stalks or chives) or the end of a bunch of spring onions, plus some lemon. “That would be a great start to a quiche, because you can just blitz it all up and you’ll have instant flavour.” Top with radishes tossed in oil or serve with a side of veg.
Spring, however, doesn’t always mean greens, so don’t forget about first-harvest beetroot and carrots. “We don’t always think of them as spring-like, but they are so tender,” says Anna Shepherd, author of Love Vegetables. She finely shaves raw beetroot and uses it to top filo, ready-rolled puff or shortcrust pastry alongside shallots and pink peppercorns. “Layer that with some plant-based creme fraiche and serve with a bit of cheese, just to give it an accent.” A few peppery leaves on the side would also be very welcome.
“Peas are also underrated, and so good in a quiche with delicious bits of bacon,” Coles says. May is, of course, asparagus time, which happily loves “anything eggy and rich in dairy”, says Angela Clutton, author of Seasoning. The trick is to bump up the flavour, which Clutton does in a few ways: orange zest in the pastry; horseradish and dill in the custard; smoked trout with the asparagus. “It’s also really important to char the asparagus before it goes anywhere near your quiche,” she adds, not only to get that beautiful colour, but also to intensify the flavour. “Garnish with pea shoots as soon as the quiche comes out of the oven, so they delicately sink into the surface, then, once it has cooled down, add a few fresh ones for prettiness.”
“You could also go down the gram flour route,” Shepherd says. “I love a farinata [chickpea pancake] with a medley of roast vegetables and the likes of such as cumin and rosemary.” And be sure to leave it to rest for as long as possible, so it “takes on more flavour and gives that extra savoury dimension”. Alternatively, she might get her grate on with a rösti base. “That hits the savoury, crisp, crunchy profile, plus you’re getting an extra portion of veg.” Top that with a green olive and herb salsa, say, or a simple tomato sauce or some simply dressed sharp leaves (think rocket, mizuna or watercress) and a few parmesan shavings: “That makes a beautiful spring centrepiece.”
One of the greatest things about quiches and tarts is that they keep for days, though Clutton likes hers best when it’s still got a “breath of the oven” on it. “By all means make the quiche ahead of time, but do take it out of the fridge in plenty of time, so it’s not cold, and ideally pop it in the oven again for a short while to give it a little zhoosh,” she says. “Fridge-cold quiche is clearly a crime.”
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