Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Ellie Seymour

Uncovering the best of Tokyo’s underground food scene – with £2 ramen bowls and fruit sandwiches

Worth the wait: Ellie joins the queue at a tiny ramen bar in Tokyo as part of her food tour - (Ellie Seymour)

“Keep conversations to a minimum and focus on your meal,” says a typed folded A4 paper sign taped onto the back of a cupboard in front of me. Perched at a low counter on a padded diner stool, I do as I’m told, and pick up my bowl, slurping soup with a little porcelain spoon, and eating mouthfuls of noodles with chopsticks.

Rich warm broth drips down my chin, while the smell of frying tempura wafts from the tiny strip-lit kitchen in front of me, where Japanese chefs chatter. Behind me, hungry diners waiting in line for a seat are talking in hushed voices.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.