Whisper it — British antiques fairs aren’t what they used to be. Blame it on Brexit or Covid, but something has sent many of the French, Belgian and Italian dealers packing. Add in the low barrier to entry for amateur Instagram dealers and it’s a recipe for slim pickings.
Best to fit a flea market or antiques fair into your summer holiday plans. I know I’d rather spring out of bed at 6am to browse a French brocante — a second-hand market with pro dealers - than chuck a towel over a sun lounger. My partner Byron has resigned himself to my rummaging.
It’s always worth asking about the best markets at that cool bar or restaurant on your first night.
If you’re on an Art Deco mission, Paris is always a winner, especially the famous Marché aux Puces in Clignancourt, but its dealers are often touting pricey collectible pieces. Countries that were also centres of Deco design, like the Czech Republic, can be goldmines for incredible pieces at accessible prices.
You can get a feel for local customs pretty quickly at a flea market, and chatting to dealers is a great way to learn. Haggling is the big one. It’s a total non-starter in Japan, for example, but other countries have a you snooze you-lose culture that rewards assertiveness.
You’ll see more card machines these days, but a bum bag full of cash is still a must. I’ll also take an extra suitcase away for portable pieces like sculpture or ceramics. Eurostar has a generous luggage policy if you’re hitting the French, Belgian or Dutch markets.
If you’re hoping for a mega haul then it’s wise to look into logistics before you go. Don’t be afraid to ask the dealers for their shipping contacts, or if they can hold on to your purchases while you speak to UK-based companies.
Always consider the transport cost; a bargain can become anything but.
What else isn’t worth it? Anything over-restored that has been so refinished that it looks fake. Better to get something that needs a bit of love that you can get restored back in the UK.
Beware too those beachside purchases that look great with a light lunchtime Ouzo buzz, but will probably look out of place in your flat. It’s a fine line between unique and memorable and something best left by the beach. Generally, older pieces feel more authentic and lend that worldly, collected look.
Even if you don’t buy anything, you’ll learn so much just by seeing furniture and antiques from different places. My friend told me a Japanese expression that I love: ‘Me ga koeru’, or ‘greedy eyes’ in English. I’m always taking snaps of details and colours as I go.
Six of the best markets in Europe and beyond
Les Puces du Canal, Lyon
Paris can be an expensive place to start. This market in the suburbs of Lyon has a great mix of antiques and 20th-century pieces and it’s really inexpensive.
pucesducanal.com; From 7am, Thursday to Sunday
Waterlooplein Flea Market, Amsterdam
I’m doing a project in Amsterdam at the moment, and Waterlooplein has proved to be a winner. It’s a great spot for hand-painted Dutch cabinets, carved baronial chests, lots of heavy brown wood.
waterlooplein.amsterdam; 9.30am-6pm, Monday to Saturday
Arezzo Antiques Fair, Italy
This Tuscan city is a hotspot for 18th-century pieces in the Rococo style. It also attracts a lot of art dealers, and you can pick up seriously old paintings for a surprisingly reasonable price.
fieraantiquaria.org; 9am-8pm, first Sunday of the month, and 9am-7pm, preceding Saturday
Consell Flea Market, Mallorca
There’s often people clearing out their old fincas at this market in the heart of the island, and there’s lots of pieces with a folky feel. I left a beautiful oversized bowl there last year, to my regret.
seemallorca.com; 8am-2pm, Sundays
The Rose Bowl Flea Market, Los Angeles
This huge and eclectic market, held in a stadium, is a bit of a freak show in the best way. There’s lots of quite random Eighties and Nineties items up for grabs.
rgcshows.com; 5am-3pm, second Sunday of the month
Heiwajima Antiques Fair, Tokyo
Tokyo has a culture of collecting and people have an incredible passion for objects. This fair has everything from 19th-century woodblock prints to Furbies. It's my ultimate shopping fantasy to go one day.
