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Michael La Corte

"Top Chef's" Wellington battle sputters

The following contains spoilers from "Top Chef: World All Stars" Season 20, Episode 11, "Battle of the Wellingtons"

Well, alas, my hopes have been dashed, and some air has been let out of my tires.

After last week's terrific thali challenge and episode, the format of the latest "Top Chef" episode and the eventual eliminees (yes, plural, for some inane reason) certainly don't excite me much upon heading into the "home stretch" leading up to the big finale. 

To be totally frank, this final four (sans "Last Chance Kitchen" victor, which all my hopes are riding on) feels relatively lackluster to me. Buddha has obviously more than secured his spot, as has Ali, but I'm just not so sure about Tom and Gabri. 

After last week's terrific Thali challenge and episode, the format of this episode and the eventual eliminees (yes, plural, for some inane reason) certainly don't excite me much upon heading into the "home stretch" leading up to the big finale. 

Buddha is a top-notch, supremely talented cheftestant, perhaps one of the all-time best, but I just never feel the need to put all my eggs in his basket, per se. Of course, it'll be a real humdinger if he's able to win two consecutive seasons and his talent stands for itself, but it sometimes feels like his dominance is . . . dry? Not fun to watch? I also feel that Gabri was entirely carried by him this week. Tom has been very inconsistent, Ali is super likable and very talented (and probably my winner pick if this Top 4 remains as is), but I generally just prefer other cheftestants this season (see: Victoire, Charbel, Sara).

Gabriel Rodriguez and Sara Bradley in "Top Chef" (David Moir/Bravo)

I mention in my Restaurant Wars recap that current or modern seasons of "Top Chef" can sometimes feel a bit sanitized and while the thali episode certainly countered that, this episode fell back into that place, unfortunately. I'm also still perplexed by the inexplicable need for a double elimination at such a late stage; as this fantastically thorough tweet notes, double eliminations almost always occur within the first few "rounds" of a season — not at Top 5. 

Using only a singular pot of water

The water conservation QuickFire, however, is one of the bright spots of this episode. It's always great when Top Chef (via Padma) is able to make a statement and it is fascinating to see the cheftestants have to severely conserve water and use only a small amount amongst all of their dishes. It's fun to see Sara dole out the water "rations" and take control of that task.

Tom Goetter, Ali Al Ghzawi, Buddha Lo, Gabriel Rodriguez, Sara Bradley and Amar Santana in "Top Chef" (David Moir/Bravo)

On the flipside, though, it's a bummer that she inexplicably chooses to try to cook Asian cuisine (?) for the first time in her "Top Chef" career. That doesn't make much sense. Buddha's dish sounds lovely (as always), and it's exciting to see Gabri in the top. 

"The Battle of the Wellingtons"

As far as the Wellington elimination challenge, in which our cheftestants are divvied into pairs via a knife block drawer and then tasked with making three separate Wellingtons (one fish, one meat, one dessert), there's a ton of amazing-sounding food. 

Buddha and Gabri's peach melba Wellington dessert looks and sounds delightful. While I love Sauce Américaine, I can see how the judges feel that it doesn't complement tuna well. I also love the sound of Amar and Sara's dessert, especially with the sponge cake and phyllo dough, but the "frozen creme anglaise pearls" actually doesn't look all that great in the close-up shots. I'll always love a chestnut and apple combination, even if it's "rustic."

However, I do feel like a lot of the suspense centering around a Wellington challenge (dramatically cutting the crust, seeing how well it's cooked, etc.) unfortunately falls by the wayside here.

However, I do feel like a lot of the suspense centering around a Wellington challenge (dramatically cutting the crust, seeing how well it's cooked, etc.) unfortunately falls by the wayside here. 

Also, it is interesting to see Ali get knocked repeatedly for under-seasoned purees. That is uncharacteristic — and to happen twice in one meal? Beyond that, Padma notes the "tackiness" or "gumminess" of both purees multiple times — we are obviously left to conclude that that is due to the inclusion of the xanthan gum. 

Sara Bradley and Amar Santana in "Top Chef" (David Moir/Bravo)

The judging is intriguing: it seems like Padma and Gail are leaning towards being pro-Sara/Amar, while Tom Colicchio is decisively in the Ali/Tom camp, and the guest judge leans a bit towards Sara/Amar. Sara and Amar seem to have had a preferable menu and stronger flavors overall, but of course, a plain-but-well-cooked beef Wellington will always beat out a quasi-inedible-yet-beautifully conceptualized raw lamb Wellington (shoot, though, those flavors sound beautiful, though!) Sara and Amar could've served astonishing, downright superb fish and dessert Wellingtons, but that undercooked lamb will doomed them regardless, unfortunately. 

It's interesting, though: Sometimes, at Top 4, there's a real momentum and excitement leading into the final rounds, rooting on your favorites, anticipating the finale trip and the amazing food, etc. Other seasons, however, there's a general tedium or slight restlessness that sets in, almost a low-grade fatigue . . . and I'm starting to feel that this season might lean into the latter camp, unfortunately. I don't think it's just me, either; my brother is a good three or four episodes behind and has no desire to catch up.

Anyway, onwards and upwards! Still rooting for Charbel and/or Sara for the win . . . but wouldn't it be funny if Amar beats them both in "Last Chance Kitchen"?

Anyway, onwards and upwards! Still rooting for Charbel and/or Sara for the win . . . but wouldn't it be funny if Amar beat them both in Last Chance Kitchen?

After dinner mints:

-I get a kick out of that blink-and-you-miss-it Ali and Tom dual confessional that consists only of Ali's saying "Tom . . .  Thomas . . . Tommy."

-I audibly chuckl at Tom's asking "Has anyone seen marzipan?" out loud and then Sara's genuinely responding ". . . maxi pads? Probably in the ladies' aisle."

-"El gato" is a fun Gabri nickname! 

- It's good to see Kelsey. I'm always tickled by how forever-and-always laid-back and nonchalant both Sara and Kelsey seem.

Ali Al Ghzawi and Tom Goetter in "Top Chef" (David Moir/Bravo)

-Padma looks stunning (surprise!) in that bright pink sweater. 

-I love how much tonka bean is used on this show.

-What is with that random inclusion of Sara and Amar's eating Irish cheese, followed by her saying, "I'm going to eat this in my room after France?"

-I got a kick out of "hello good people" when the judges walk around and chit-chat with the commoners. 

-This is another instance in which Amar references that he feels "too old" to still compete, which strikes me as bizarre every time he says it.

-"Ali in the finale" is a fun little rhyme.

-Tom's "climbing over the railing" move is some fun physical comedy.

"Top Chef: World All Stars" airs Thursdays at 9 p.m. on Bravo and streams next day on Peacock.

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