There is a place in western Greece where, in a single day, you can frolic at an all-inclusive resort at breakfast time and then, after lunch, wade through an entrance to the underworld. This is Parga, built over a double-curve bay where the beaches are studded with tasteful tourist attractions, and inland the Acherontas River (the “river of woe”) weaves through the rocks.
It’s a good way to plan a family holiday, I think: glamour, sunburn, feta, little bit of death, beer, swim. I decided not to tell the children about the death.
