If you’ve browsed the shelves at your local deli lately – or spotted tins of sardines wrapped like tiny presents on social media – you’ll know tinned fish is having a moment. Once dismissed as a back-of-the-cupboard back-up, it has improbably become one of Britain’s chicest grocery indulgences.
Few people understand this transformation better than Patrick Martinez, founder of The Tinned Fish Market, in Borough Market, London, who has quietly built a following for tins as both an everyday staple and a holiday keepsake ever since lugging a couple of suitcases of sardines back from Portugal.
