Luke Larsson knows his way around a grill. At Khao Bird, the northern Thai barbecue restaurant that found a permanent home on Brewer Street in Soho last year, fire is less a piece of kitchen equipment than an organising principle.
The restaurant began life in Brighton as Lucky Khao before a year-long residency above Borough Market’s Globe Tavern convinced Larsson and restaurateur Mike Palmer to bring it properly to London.