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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Lilly Subbotin

Three Darlings, London: Gorgeous, pink and packed with (almost) too much choice

A scallop worth shouting about and parfait so smooth it should come with a warning - (Lilly Subbotin)

Sitting at the chef’s counter can be an exciting way to enjoy food; getting a glimpse into their process and a front seat view of where the magic happens. It can also mean your meal ends up feeling less intimate, with a certain amount of pressure to engage with the correct amount of oohs and ahhs. Not to mention pretending to enjoy something you don’t.

One of Jason Atherton’s latest restaurants (among five he’s opened in as many months), has nailed the formula with several forward-facing, slightly elevated tables for two that offer an uninterrupted vista of the open kitchen. You can see everything that’s going on while still having your own cosy little nook to devour your food. It’s the first I’ve seen of this kind and hope to see more.

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