Blackberry picking is a pleasing, end-of-summer ritual. Brambles grow in city and countryside alike; not only does their fruit make a delightful snack for passers-by, but, for more organised foragers, their intense flavour is pure joy in any crumble, tart or jam. That same acidity works wonders in salads, too, whether paired with seared meat (venison, pigeon and steak all work well), cured ham or, as here, with rich goat’s cheese.
