Don’t be daunted by the fuzzy skin and hard flesh of quince – these autumn gems blush pink and turn sweet and fragrant with slow cooking. Lamb neck, a brilliantly affordable cut, also yields into soft, falling-apart fragments when it’s cooked slowly. Ras el hanout seems a fitting seasoning for the two together – a warming blend of ginger, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cardamom, nutmeg and even some rose petals.
