Maftoul is a giant couscous from Palestine. Its large grains soak up sauces and braises to become plump, succulent beads imbued with flavour – in this case, a delicately spiced tomato sauce for cod. It is simple to make and will not need to spend hours simmering on the stove; I love this sort of thing at Christmas – easy yet spoiling as you get ready for the feasting proper. The miniature orange and burnt sugar flans can be made well in advance and are blissful.