It was in the Dordogne where my love for apricots began. I doubt I had ever tried one before (back then, we barely even knew what rocket was), but as I helped my exchange family’s grandmother make kilos of jam from the ripe, golden fruits, their sticky, sweet flesh and almond-scented kernels bewitched me. Apricots can be underwhelming in the UK, all dry and flavourless, so seek out a discerning greengrocer to get hold of the real deal. As much as I love apricots in puddings, they also lend a deeply fruity tang to savoury chutneys and relishes.
