It is little wonder to me that fortunes have been made trading spices. Some combinations, such as the classic Chinese five-spice, are so aromatic that I find myself mesmerised by them. It takes moments to make and transforms both duck and the accompanying plums in today’s recipe, adding complexity to the fruit’s acidity. The crisp potatoes are a delicious addition; slice the duck thinly and you will find you are well fed without much meat.