“Look ahead and don’t overthink it!” my surf instructor, Ceciliano, instructs as I paddle furiously.
“Show conviction. Crouch. Now stand.” I slide into a warrior position, arms stretched out, navigating the swell. For one glorious second I’m vertical but it’s short-lived – the full force of a wave tips me off balance, spewing me onto the sand seconds later. Needless to say my teenage daughter is much better than me. She skirts the same wave elegantly, effortlessly upright as she reaches the shoreline.
