
There’s a certain quiet in London’s Persian restaurants right now — not a silence of absence, but one of thoughtful pause. And as Nowruz, the Persian New Year, is here, that quiet feels especially pronounced.
Traditionally, Nowruz (meaning ‘new day’) is a season of brightness: tables laid with the haft-sin, homes scented with hyacinth and orange blossom, kitchens alive with sabzi polo and lovingly marinated fish.