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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
World
Joanna Taylor

This King’s Cross omakase bar lacks the one thing sushi demands: freshness

Between watching a snack splat on the pavement, Dominic Raab’s faux apologies and the realisation that no, drinking natural wine will not make up for a lack of personality, disappointment comes in all shapes and sizes. Naturally, some instances feel more cruel than others and as a child, if you were lucky, one of your first experiences with such a feeling would have been the pure, devastating horror of hearing the word ‘fruit’, when you, a greedy, beady-eyed little tyrant ask: ‘What’s for pudding?’

Armed with a sweet tooth, at that age a lack of choice feels like the greatest injustice. As adults, however, many privileged enough to afford to eat what they like, when they like feel plagued by it. Menus are too long, there are too many restaurants, there is too much choice on Deliveroo. Someone get Kim K’s team to CGI me a tear. Tiny violins aside, there’s something to be said about the sweet relief of surrender. Taking a breath, pressing pause on the buzz of everyday life and trusting someone else to do the thinking; even if that only manifests as devouring what’s placed in front of you.

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