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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Helen Coffey

This is why we can’t have nice things: How your bougie taste in food is ruining the planet

The gap between “new product becomes viral sensation” and “demand for viral sensation product becomes problematic” seems to be getting shorter and shorter. The latest culprit – Dubai chocolate – appeared to make the switch within weeks. One minute I was reading a profile piece about how this sizzlingly on-trend confectionary, comprised of a pistachio cream filling, crispy kataifi (shredded phyllo dough) and tahini swaddled in milk chocolate, had become a global success story. The next, I was wincing at the oh-so-predictable follow-up: “Dubai chocolate TikTok trend triggers international pistachio shortage”. It almost feels farcical at this point.

In reality, the trajectory from social media frenzy to real-world consequences was rooted further back in time. The original Dubai chocolate, made by FIX Dessert Chocolatier and named “Can’t Get Knafeh Of It” in a nod to the Middle Eastern dessert that inspired it, launched in 2021. The first post praising this high-end, £15-a-bar concoction appeared at the tail-end of 2023. Then, like a snowball gathering ever-increasing velocity and volume as it hurtles downhill, the sweet treat’s popularity swiftly spiralled out of control. More and more TikTok videos jumped on the bandwagon, sales rocketed, and copycat versions sprang up from the likes of Lindt, the sale of which had to be limited to two bars per person at Waitrose after multiple sell-outs.

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