On all featured recipe photos, prop styling: Kate Whitaker; food styling: Bianca Nice Photograph: Kate Whitaker/The Observer
For years, September’s arrival equalled a feeling of “back to school dread”. No more bank holidays and long summer evenings, sitting outside and lazily drinking rosé. I mournfully focused on the shortening days and reluctant need for a coat, clinging on to wearing cardigans for as long as possible in protest. But there is, of course, beauty in the change in season. And I have learned to celebrate my favourite thing this time of year has to offer, and that is its produce. To soften the blow, nature gives us the best it has. Sure, we have to temporarily say goodbye to mounds of strawberries, jersey royals and peas, but instead here come cascading beans, golden corn and stone fruits. Yes, we might need to actually start wearing closed-toe shoes again, but it’s OK, because with that comes cosier indoor dining and a bounty of leafy greens, darkening plump berries and sculptural, curvaceous squashes.
And this is what excites me after a summer of being sociable and eating out. I actually want to host again. To take advantage of what is abundant and to get back in the kitchen, because if it could speak, I’m sure my kitchen would tell me it has felt a little neglected over the last few months.
