The music begins in Sankofa Square as hundreds surround a slowly approaching black truck. A half dozen drums beat in sync and sheet metal bells ring to the rhythm.
It’s Ghanaian Jama music, and the crowd, one half sporting bright yellow Ghana kits and the other in traditional kente cloth, sway and chant with it. Shouting starts the moment a man steps out of the car.
It’s Otumfuo Nana Osei Tutu II, the king of Ghana’s Ashanti tribe. Shaded from the pounding heat, the Asantehene follows the music—and a sizable procession—towards a stage with a golden throne.