Winning tip: Ninh Binh countryside
OK, so the town of Ninh Binh (two hours’ drive south of Hanoi) is no looker, but the surrounding countryside will seduce you. Once there I hired a bicycle and set out early morning to explore the karst limestone scenery (think Halong bay with rice paddies replacing the sea). It was a wonderfully peaceful day of exploring villages, and having a picnic by the side of rice fields while watching the locals work. After two weeks in Vietnam, it was the first time I could really listen to the birds and feel at peace. It can be hard to escape the mopeds, but I had found the Vietnam I had hoped for.
Noodlequeen