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Wales Online
Wales Online
Entertainment
Eve Rowlands

The Welsh restaurant The Telegraph’s top reviewer called ‘magnificent’

'Magnificent' and tremendous' were just two of the words used to describe brothers Tom and Owen Morgan's Cardiff-based Spanish grill Asador 44 by The Telegraph's top restaurant reviewer William Sitwell.

Sitwell complimented the restaurant - which has sister sites Bar 44 in Penarth and Cardiff as well as boutique hotel above, Parador 44 - greatly before he delved into a myriad of dishes that transported him and his dining partner Emily to the coast of Spain.

Describing the setting he wrote: "The establishment is a mix of oak flooring, white tiles, whitewashed brickwork and steel joists. As you sink into comfortable leather seats and banquettes, your eyes are drawn to large fridges ageing huge cuts of meat, shelves of fat cookbooks, little rooms filled with wine and, behind glass, chefs tempering fire and smoke. The intent is clear. We will satisfy your inner cave-person."

Read more: The brilliant people behind Wales' most beloved restaurant sat among the rolling hills

Detailing the flavours of his and his family's food choices - his kids too were there - he explains how he tucked into a tasty selection of Cantabrian anchovies, salchichón - both of which were 'heavenly paired' with a glass of white vino - prawn croquetas (which are described as looking like "two dark-black chocolate truffles" with a "fine mix of shellfish"), a whole shoulder of suckling pig called cochinillo, whole grilled squid with "poor man's potatoes in cider" and complimented by sides of broccoli and miso butter drizzled cabbage with morcilla.

He penned, recalling these dishes, "These are all magnificent bites, delivering what the walls of the place seem to offer: wholesome, satisfying, invigorating flavour."

As for what his kids enjoyed, their plates consisted of fish goujons, tender strips of steak with chips and broccoli.

While his final cabbage side dish didn't quite impress the food reviewers - with him writing how "its scent of the dung heap is too much for me" - William's conclusion of Asador 44 - which opened in 2017 - was that it was a "tremendous emporium that celebrates the glory of rustic Spanish cuisine" and will "satisify your inner cave-person".

Asador 44 is well-loved for it flame-grilled steaks, legs of lamb, fish and so much more and is run by the Morgan brothers Tom and Owen, who also head up Barr 44 and Parador 44 with their sister Natalie Isaac - whose breakfast at Asador itself we tried some months ago and were left full and satisfied. Read more on that here.

After discovering his review on The Telegraph, the team behind Asador took to social media to thank the writer.

It wrote: "Amazing review in the @telegraph from @williamsitwell. A massive congratulations to Adam Jones, Paul Bainbridge & the @asador44 / @parador_44 team. Thank you all for your continued support. Happy Easter @sherrymonster44 @bar44tom @natalie.isaac"

This isn't the first review that sings the praises of Asador 44. In 2020, the Daily Mail's Tom Parker Bowles ventured to Cardiff to get a taste of its mouthwatering meat and described his lunch as "drenched in love, lust and unfiltered Spanish succour" and went on to say it could be his "restaurant of the year".

Asador 44 is found at 14-15 Quay St., Cardiff CF10 1EA

See here to read the full review on The Telegraph.

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