‘The trout lasagne is very good!’ How I recreated six classic beef dishes – with oily fish

A legit dish … Tim’s trout lasagne. Photographs: Tim Dowling/The Guardian Photograph: Tim Dowling/The Guardian

“What’s for supper?” my wife asks. We are watching the six o’clock news and the pause I leave before answering is longer than I mean it to be. I’m trying to find the words.

“Fish wellington,” I say, finally. The silence that follows is longer still.