As Jonathan Prynn reports in today's Standard, according to the latest edition of Harden’s London Restaurants, there are now 54 venues in London where a couple could expect to receive a bill for at least £300 for their evening out. It's a huge increase; up by almost half from 37 last year. But it signifies a broader change, too, a great upward joly: as recently as the 2016 Harden's guide, only The Araki London in Mayfair went past the £150-a-head barrier.
Today, the idea of a meal at a top-end restaurant coming in at that price feels faintly quaint. In fact, the price of a meal for two in London’s most expensive restaurants this year crossed the £1000 threshold. It happened first during the summer as Sushi Kanesaka opened within 45 Park Lane and part of the Dorchester Collection. Here, supper costs £420-a-head before drinks and service are added. With service at 15 per cent — which, though discretionary, is added automatically by the restaurant — and a bottle of house wine at £125, a meal for two costs £1109.75. A recommended sake pairing can be had for £150 or £220, with bottles starting at £250 and rising to £1550. Tap water, however, can be ordered, as can a bottle of beer — at £10.
