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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Lydia Swinscoe

The perfect solo travel guide to Kuala Lumpur

‘Most disgusting place I’ve ever stayed. The rooms are filthy. If you like to sleep, don’t bother’. These are just a few of the online reviews for the hostel I stayed at when I first visited Kuala Lumpur on a year-long round-the-world backpacking trip in 2010.

Located in the heart of Chinatown, Wheeler's Guest House and its £5.70-per-night rooms closed for good in 2017. And so to find myself accidentally on the same street, just one door down, 15 years later felt utterly surreal. Sipping a mango sticky rice coffee from the plant-filled surroundings of a fun new rooftop coffee shop, it was clear to see that Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown has evolved beyond recognition.

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