The Next Generation of SPF Has Arrived—And It’s Encapsulated

Encapsulated SPF Tamara Kalinic wears center-parted long brown hair pulled back into a low ponytail with loose waves, dark aviator sunglasses, a black leather cuff on one wrist .

Encapsulation has been a quiet revolution in skincare for years. The method involves wrapping active ingredients in microscopic protective shells, such as liposomes or microspheres, to keep them stable, boost their penetration into the skin, and release them in a controlled way over time. The technique allows potent actives like retinoids to be delivered more effectively and with fewer side effects, even on sensitive skin.

Now, formulators are applying the technique to SPF, marking a new step towards smarter, more sophisticated sunscreens. “Encapsulation is used to improve both performance and skin feel,” explains Catarina Oliveira, co-founder of Herbar. “Zinc oxide doesn’t feel great on the skin—it can be chalky, hard to spread, and leave a white cast. By coating the mineral filters with jojoba esters, which is a skin-friendly lipid, we were able to achieve better dispersion and stability in the formula, reduced white cast and smoother application, and improved compatibility with the skin barrier since jojoba esters mimic natural sebum.”