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Salon
Salon
Lifestyle
Ashlie D. Stevens

The new rules of pierogi

Somewhere between the giant wooden duck box and the framed colored-pencil portrait of strangers' wedding vows, there’s a plate of pierogi that tastes like a cheeseburger. Not metaphorically, but literally: sesame-seeded dough stuffed with ground brisket, shredded lettuce, American cheese, onions and “max” sauce. The only thing missing is a drive-thru window.

This is Consignment Lounge, the Chicago tavern-meets-curio-shop that calls itself “an aesthetically pleasing collection of useless items for sale inside a neighborhood bar.” There, Max Glassman — known around town as Pierogi Papi — sets up shop on weekends, spinning out dumplings that feel like a dare and a love letter at the same time. Italian beef pierogi. Smoked salmon with everything-bagel dough and whipped caper mascarpone. “Grandma’s recipe with a twist,” he says. 

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