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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
World
Joanna Taylor

The new London restaurant where you pay to have a terrible time

Service is a delicate thing. It mustn’t be rushed, nor too slow. It should be friendly, but not too friendly. Attentive, but never intrusive. Informative, but not patronising. Polite, though not sycophantic. Done well, you’ll probably barely notice it, time will glide by with ease and you’ll remember everyone smiling and clinking glasses of your new favourite wine with a warm fuzzy feeling in years to come. Done terribly, however, and it’ll be burned into the back of your skull for the rest of eternity.

Of course, we’re all human, which means nothing can be perfect all the time, nor should we expect it to be. A pleasant experience is just fine, right? Well, usually, though one bizarre new restaurant provides anything but, and all on purpose.

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