History meets spirituality at the ruins of Strata Florida Abbey - Ystrad Fflw in Welsh. This historic Welsh site near Tregaron in the Cambrian Mountains has stood on lush meadows beside the banks of the river Teifi since 1201 and is the last resting place of several Welsh princes.
The sacred site is open to visitors looking for a quiet space for contemplation and to learn more about Wales' medieval history and royalty.
Cadw explains on its website that Strata Florida was established by white-robed Cistercian monks, as part of a movement that spread like a tidal wave across the whole of western Europe in the early Middle Ages.
Read More: Incredible stargazing destinations in Wales where you can explore the cosmos
Known affectionately as the Westminster Abbey of Wales, it had its heyday in the 12th and 13th centuries and was once an important centre of culture, religion and trade, with connections spreading far across the Welsh landscape.
History teaches us that Llywelyn the Great once held a council of Welsh princes here, persuading them to acknowledge his son Dafydd as their rightful leader.
It also became the most famous church in Wales after St Davids – a place of pilgrimage and a linchpin of Welsh culture. The great poet Dafydd ap Gwilym is also said to be buried under a yew tree in the churchyard.
Today, visitors can step back in time and marvel at the beautiful ruins and learn more about this important and powerful religious centre in Wales.
The history of Strata Florida
The Strata Florida Trust has a wealth of information and resources to explain the site's historical and religious significance. The Abbey was founded to be a great institution in the service of the native people of Wales and Western Christianity, through its membership of the pan-European Cistercian Order of monasteries.
Several descendants of Lord Rhys have been buried at this Abbey, including 11 princes of the Welsh royal house of Dinefwr of Deheubarth, during the 12th and 13th centuries.
The weathered graves of the Welsh princes lie outside the church and the simple headstones and grave slabs are thought to mark the graves of two of the Lord Rhys's sons.
Visitors to the site can still sense the importance of this site among the ruins. The beautifully carved west doorway into the abbey still stands desolate and offers a timeless view down the nave to where the high altar once stood.
You can also still see some of the incredibly decorated tiles that would have covered the floors of the church as well as some of the intricate carvings around the site.
This impressive abbey has a long and varied historical timeline and was founded first in 1164 and then re-founded by the powerful prince of south-western Wales, the Lord Rhys of Deheubarth.
The Strata Florida Trust note that the Abbey seems to have been deliberately founded in a landscape already full of sacred significance from the times of the earliest permanent settlers on the land.
Then, after the end of the Abbey, during Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries in 1539, the land and buildings of the Abbey came into the hands of secular gentry and farmers. All of this has left a vast archaeological legacy of remains of this 4000-year long story in the historic landscapes which tell a story of persistence among the mountains of Wales.
Following its dissolution in 1539, the site of Strata Florida Abbey was left to deteriorate and to be forgotten, despite its prominence in Welsh history and politics.
It was not until the 1880s that the site of the former Abbey was excavated by civil engineer and architect Stephen Williams. What was revealed by the excavations is now in the expert care of Cadw.
Today, it has a variety of ruins that visitors can explore. The only substantive structure remaining of the monastery is the main entrance archway. The Great West Door to the Abbey Church has low walls marking the extent of the church and its six subsidiary chapels.
Visiting Strata Florida
There is no charge to visit the site and visitors can go on a self-guided walk around St Mary’s Church and churchyard to see the memorial to the poet Dafydd ap Gwilym, or follow footpaths into the ancient Abbey woodland and mountain sheep pastures to the south and east, or along the river to the west.
The Strata Florida Trust is also encouraging visitors to engage with the site and has a variety of talks, community workshops and guided walks. There's also a new community use space at the site that will host activities and events.
You can also learn more about the former Cistercian abbey where generations of Welsh princes are buried on a Celtic pilgrimage walk with Guided Pilgrimage, a not-for-profit travel company providing pilgrimage experiences in Wales.
This special pilgrimage walk begins and ends at Coed Dolgoed car park in between Pontrhydfendigaid and Strata Florida. Whilst hiking, you'll pass through farmlands, ancient forests and spiritual sites.
On this walk, you'll also hear the stories of these monks that are woven into the land and learn more about the importance of Strata Florida as the birthplace of a cohesive 'Wales' nation and what makes this such an important place in Welsh heritage.
Founder of Guided Pilgrimage Christine Smith thinks that despite the ruinous nature of the site, visitors should still come and explore Strata Florida.
Speaking on the Travel Goals Podcast, she said: "The remains are not massive, but they are really heartfelt you know, what you can actually see here, the ruins themselves have got a lovely sense of place about them. And it's not overrun, you can come here and really have some peace and quiet and a fantastic setting."
Stargazing in Strata Florida
Ceredigion’s naturally dark skies are ideal for stargazing and autumn, winter and spring are the best times of year to enjoy gazing up at the cosmos.
Strata Florida Abbey is a popular site for stargazers and astrophotographers, who come to observe starry sites such as the Milky Way and the distinctive W shape of the Cassiopeia constellation.
The project manager for Dyfodol Cambrian Futures, Dafydd Wyn Morgan points out that Abaty Ystrad Fflur [Strata Florida], is close to the Cambrian Mountains Astro Trail.
He said: "Nearby you have the community-run Coed Y Bont Dark Sky Discovery Site. Being at the Abbey under a sky full of stars can be really emotional and unnerving at the same time. It’s so atmospheric and peaceful.
At times you think you’re alone but occasionally you’ll hear the shriek of an owl or the rustling of leaves as a hedgehog looks for food. Don’t be alarmed. Nature wakes up at night at the Strata Florida Abbey. The outline of the abbey’s carved west doorway combined with the silhouette of the landscape is a view you’ll never forget.”
Stargazers can look through the carved west doorway of the Abbey into the ruined remains of the nave to where the high altar once stood. This historic archway also provides a good foreground object for keen astrophotographers.
If you need somewhere to stay overnight, Strata Florida is located just a few miles away from the market town of Tregaron, which is an excellent base for stargazing breaks due to its proximity to several stargazing hotspots. Try the boutique Y Talbot hotel for a restful night after gazing at the cosmos.
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How to get to Strata Florida
The easiest way to reach Strata Florida is to drive to the site as it is 1km from the nearest village. Parking is free at the site. The nearest railway station is in Aberystwyth, 15 miles away from Pontrhydfendigaid.
There are buses from Aberystwyth railway station to Pontrhydfendigaid throughout the day and the journey takes approximately 45mins. There is also a taxi rank at the railway station should you prefer.
For further information on transport within the county visit Travelline or download the Traveline Cymru app
