The Hunan Man, 45 Grafton Way, London W1T 5DQ. Starters £3.80-£13.80, large dishes £11.80-£36.80, desserts £3.80- £10.80, wines from £27, Tiger beer £4.60
A trip to the website for the Hunan Man, a thigh-slapping, salt and chilli-boosted Chinese restaurant that opened recently near London’s Goodge Street, is a thrilling journey back to the glory days of dial-up internet. Helpfully, the restaurant has uploaded the entirety of its Technicolor pic-splattered menu to the website. Less helpfully, it’s so image-dense, so florid and blazing, that it freezes up on my desktop. Suddenly, from the dank mists of the late 90s arise memories of trying to scroll through websites over-engineered for the Information Country Lane by which most of us accessed them. Squinting as an image revealed itself pixel by pixel could be an infuriating business. And no, I’m not talking about that sort of website. For God’s sake, people. Really!
