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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Lucy Knight

The ‘fricy’ flavour sensation: why spicy fruit is the sweet hot taste of this summer

A woman wearing a pink hat and a light blue shirt biting into a pineapple covered in red sauce
Lucy tucking into a Pine Pop – pineapple coated with homemade chamoy. Photograph: Jill Mead/The Guardian

When the balance of fruit and spicy flavours is right, “I love it,” a fellow customer at a dessert cafe in London tells me as we wait to be served. It’s 26-year-old Hannah’s third time visiting Mango Twist in Seven Sisters, which sells South American-inspired slushies and fruit bowls. She’s here, like me, to order one of its “fricy” (fruity and spicy) offerings: the “Volcano” slushie, which is the cafe’s take on the traditional Mexican chamoyada, a mango and chilli drink.

Hannah has family in the US, so is familiar with the Mexican sweet treats that are commonly available there; as a child she was “obsessed” with the flavours. So when she found out about Mango Twist, “I was like, ‘I need to come here,’” she says.

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