The Campaner, Chelsea Barracks, 1 Garrison Square, London SW1W 8BG (020 4580 1385). Starters and small plates £9-£22.50, mains £22-£77, desserts £9.90-£11, wines from £29
To prepare for eating at the Campaner, the new London outpost of an apparently famous restaurant group in Barcelona, first look in the window of the estate agents just across the square. A two-bedroom apartment on this Qatari-funded development, which occupies what was once Chelsea Barracks, will cost you £6.65m. Spend an extra £1.35m and you can have a third bedroom. Bargain. Either way you’ll be living in a cold-edged and bleak development which, despite being finished, still looks like a computer-generated artist’s impression of itself. There are retractable bollards on the private road to keep the bad people out. There are overly cheerful doormen, loitering on the pavements. Very few lights are on. The website bears the legend: “This is your realm. Enter your private world of sophistication.” I do so love being privately sophisticated.
