The deli on 603 Clinton Street in New York City is fairly unassuming. Nestled between a Baptist church and a few auto repair shops, it operates seven days a week on the edge of Red Hook, a neighborhood in Brooklyn surrounded by shipping yards and civil war-era warehouses.
For most customers, new and old, there are two ways to identify the deli. One is by the large white banner that hangs above windows plastered with cigarette ads and flyers featuring neighborhood events. “Red Hook Food Corp”, the banner says in bold red and black letters.
