London is jam-packed with excellent restaurants. The only problem? A large proportion of the attention-grabbing ones require a trek into “town.” Can’t think of anything worse? Look to one of these brilliant north London destinations situated above our invisible line that runs between Maida Vale, Regent’s Park and Bethnal Green. This guide isn’t exhaustive, but it’s a good place to start.
North east
Allegra
Refined, stylish and glamorous, stepping from the bustle of Stratford into this sky-high haven is like arriving on another planet. Headed up by Patrick Powell, here you’ll find striking, delicious, contemporary European fare crafted with the utmost care and precision. Offering an à la carte menu, a set lunch for only £42, and an even better tasting menu for just £62, it’s a brilliant spot for an elevated bite or a special occasion. Meanwhile, Powell’s regularly changing pop-ups on the terrace promise a more laidback, casual experience. Right now you’ll find Tuscan-inspired focaccia sandwiches, ice-cream sundaes and sunny summer spritzes.
Manhattan Loft Gardens, 20 International Way, E20, allegra-restaurant.com
Mangal 1
Counting Gilbert and George, Jamie Oliver and Ottolenghi as longtime fans, this Dalston spot is certainly no secret. Regularly cited as one of London’s best kebab shops, make haste to this 30-year-old Turkish haven for the expertly grilled, mighty juicy cöp şiş (lamb skewers) served with salad and warm, pillowy, freshly baked bread. Full disclosure, though: if you’re looking for soft, romantic lighting, this is not the place for you.
10 Arcola Street, E8, @mangal_ocakbasi
Mambow
A Malaysian masterpiece, as per the Standard’s review, Abby Lee’s Clapton spot offers some of the best cooking in the capital, let alone north London. Lee’s menu is one layered with spice, with dishes glistening under prickling sauces, all coming from an open kitchen where Lee stands at bubbling pots and pans, attentively tuning and refining, adjusting, perfecting. Brilliant? No; it’s even better than that.
78 Lower Clapton Road, E5, mambow.co.uk
Singburi
Securing a table at this hyped-up restaurant is harder than getting Ben Affleck to crack a smile. But you know what they say: God loves a trier, and eating here is certainly worth a try. The perfect place for a big group of pals, it boasts a changing menu of hyper-authentic, effervescent Thai food by chef Sirichai Kularbwong that makes each visit more exciting than the last. Be sure to get the clams and carry cash, as your card ain’t welcome.
593 High Road, E11, @singburi_e11
Silo
For the forefront of sustainable cooking, look no further than the lover letter to the environment that is Douglas McMaster’s Silo. In 2014 (back when it was based in Brighton) the innovative, trend-busting eatery became the world’s first zero waste restaurant, and between serving up invasive species, pushing the boundaries of fermentation and making the most of every scrap of matter at his fingertips, McMaster and his mission continue to go from strength to strength. Often challenging but always delicious, this restaurant is as much of a delight your brain as it is your palette.
Unit 7, The White Building, Queen's Yard, E9, silolondon.com
Ombra
Conveniently located a hop, a skip and a jump from Bethnal Green station, Ombra is a breath of fresh air away from the hustle and bustle of town – but still within easy reach. Serving rustic yet decadent Italian food and an expertly curated low intervention wine list, it’s all vibes, vibes, vibes. Bring your friends and/ or your lovers for long, winding lunches of gnocco fritto, freshly made pasta and Dexter beef ribs to share, before taking a wander (or a wobble) down the canal to walk it all off.
1 Vyner St, Bethnal Green, E2, ombrabar.restaurant
Cadet
You can always tell the quality of a restaurant by the number of hospitality professionals who frequent it — and Cadet is constantly bustling with at least 80 per cent industry folk. Founded by low intervention wine importers Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts, it goes without saying that this Newington Green neo-bistro boasts an excellent list of beverages. Delicate and thoughtful, the French-leaning food overseen by former Lyle’s and Flor chef, Jamie Smart, is forever a joy. Always order the ornate paté en croute and anything by Alsatian winemaker Christophe Lindenlaub.
57 Newington Green, N16, cadetlondon.com
North central
Trullo
This Tuscan-inspired haven a stone’s throw from Highbury & Islington station is one of London’s most lauded restaurants for good reason. Promising indulgent Italian fare, an excellent selection of wines and more romance than Barry White could ever conjure, it's one you’ll find yourself returning to again and again. Crafted with the finest seasonal ingredients (most of which are sourced from producers around the UK), Conor Gadd’s unctuous, delicately prepared fresh pasta, simple yet delectable meat and fish cooked over the charcoal grill, and airy tiramisu are simply bellissimo. Got a third or fourth wheel? Treat yourselves to the 40 day aged Highland t-bone steak – you won’t regret it.
300-302 St Paul's Road, N1, trullorestaurant.com
The Plimsoll
Steered by eccentric chef duo Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allan (fondly known as Four Legs), this former old school Finsbury Park boozer took the city by storm when it opened in the latter months of 2021. Serving propper pints and low intervention wines alongside quirky, broadly European small plates and one of London’s best burgers, here’s the place to go for long, rambling, boozy suppers with friends, family and lovers who don’t take themselves too seriously.
52 St Thomas's Road, N4, @the.plimsoll
Caravel
For a dash of something different, head to this barge moored on the Regent’s Canal. Helmed by brothers Fin and Lorcan Spiteri, the cosy, intimate, candle-lit space is a brilliant place to paddle for pared-back, carefully executed bistro-style fare and creative cocktails. The caviar and sour cream-topped potato röstis are a non-negotiable. Oh, and don’t blame us if you fall in love with your best friend.
172 Shepherdess Walk, N1, caravelrestaurant.com
Saltine
Rejoice! Mat Appleton and Jess Blackstone (the brains behind north London’s beloved Fink’s cafes) have crafted the perfect neighborhood restaurant – and it just so happens to be one of the best looking spots in the capital. Filled with texture and foliage, its drenched with flattering natural light by day, and becomes a dark, sleek, seductive space by night, meaning you’ll want to delight in former St. John chef Phil Wood’s seasonal, broadly-European fare on any and every occasion. Can’t get a table? Hop on a stool a the bar for a more concise snapshot of the menu. And don’t forget to checkout their daily changing lunchtime special, which offers a main accompanied by a glass of wine for only £20.
11 Highbury Park, N5, saltine.co.uk
Gökyüzü
For great, lightening fast service, plenty of variety and laidback vibes, this Green Lanes institution is a no-brainer. Serving a vast array of comforting, delectable Turkish and Mediterranean fare in generous, family-sized portions, nip in to the lively, bustling restaurant for a speedy bite, or settle in to graze on meze and/or an expertly tended mixed grill with all the trimmings. Don’t be fooled into thinking you can simply rock up because it’s on Green Lanes, though. It might be huge but it’s very popular, so be sure to book or prepare to queue at peak times and weekday evenings.
26-28 Grand Parade, N4, gokyuzurestaurant.co.uk
FKA Black Axe Mangal
Created by Lee Tiernan, who spent a decade cutting his teeth on the pans at St. John, this wonderfully wacky nose-to tail eatery is an ode to the Turkish grills of Stoke Newington – peppered with flavour bombs from just about anywhere else on the globe so long as it’s cuisine is delicious. The forever-hyped spot has evolved somewhat in the past 12 years, and today offers a sharing-style five-course set menu for around £60 per person. Expect punchy, fierce, fiery flavours, clever use of offal and damn good flatbreads. Vegan or gluten free? No fear, Tiernan always has alternative menus to hand.
156 Canonbury Road, N1, blackaxemangal.com
Westerns Laundry
Sucker for fresh(ish) air, hyper-seasonal fare and natural wine? Head to this Highbury neo-bistro off the beaten track for an excellent selection of low-intervention vinos and small plates rustled up using sustainable, regenerative produce. The menu changes in a flash, but keep your eyes peeled for anything seafood related, which seems to be chef James Murphy’s specialty.
34 Drayton Park, N5, westernslaundry.com
North west
Carmel
The first of two fantastic, broadly eastern Mediterranean restaurants by the same name, this reliable Queen’s Park spot is a great place for a casual breakfast, brunch or lunch on the terrace, or an intimate dinner in its plush, sultry interior. Hearty and wholesome, almost everything on the menu can be interpreted as healthy, which means you’ll struggle not to find yourself going back again and again. Go for the delectable array of squishy, flame-licked flatbreads, stay for the lamb shank shawarma and Figaritas starring fig-infused tequila and kumquat.
23-25 Lonsdale Road, NW6, carmelrestaurant.co.uk
Tsiakkos & Charcoal
If you haven’t yet been, prepare to make Xen and Elena’s cosy, Greek-Cypriot escape your new home from home. Rustic, vibrant and fuss-free, the concise, considered menu at Tsiakkos & Charcoal offers excellently executed classics such as feta salad, pork souvlaki and moussaka alongside Keo (a cypriot beer) and a handy, globally-influenced wine list detailing which liquid pairs with what dishes — don’t be surprised if you end up staying into the early hours chatting to the next table and trying each and every one.
5 Marylands Road, W9, tsiakkos.co.uk
Iné
The little sister of Mayfair’s Michelin-starred Taku, Iné (which means rice in Japanese) is undoubtedly the best place in north London for sushi. Imagined by Takuya Watanabe, head chef Law Kwok Meng’s daily changing sushi and omakase offering sees him blend contemporary techniques with the traditions of the cuisine’s rich heritage. The omakase, priced at £100 for 18 courses, is an absolute steal. If you want to remember getting home, though, don’t attempt to pair a sake with each one.
16 Hampstead High Street, NW3, inebytaku.com
Ida
Every neighbourhood needs a brilliant, family-run Italian restaurant, though sadly not many live up to this one. Run by husband and wife team, Avi and Simonetta Wenkert, with the help of their three children, here you’ll find an ode to a beloved aunt’s home cooking and celebration of dishes found all over Italy. Most of the dishes are adopted to meet the seasons, though the unctuous ragù made the “Marchigiano way” with gizzards and hearts, is a safe bet 365 days a year.
222A Kilburn Lane, W10, idarestaurant.co.uk
The Hero
Whether you’re after a cheeky pint or a long, boozy, multi-course meal, The Hero is a top shout. Described by the Standard’s David Ellis as being perhaps the most beautiful pub in London (or even the world), the warm, cossetting interiors are bound to blow you away, while the low-key pub menu starring fish pie and ham, egg and chips is as comforting as it gets. A new addition to the London food and drink scene, it will soon also boast a more formal restaurant upstairs, offering all things cooked over a live fire grill. Needless to say, if it’s as good as the rest of the pub, it’ll surely be a big hit.
55 Shirland Road, W9 2JD, theherow9.com
Paulette
The great French bistro revival may be well underway with the likes of the new Bouchon Racine and Josephine Bouchon, but there are places, like this one, which have been doing it for while. Paulette is perhaps the platonic ideal of a small, French neighbourhood spot, where steak comes drenched in Bordelaise sauce, the specials change daily, and Louis Armstrong is always on the sound-system. It is exceptionally well done, and pleasingly eccentric to boot.
