Although you might think of western Europe, particularly France, Italy and Spain, as countries where food and wine goes hand in hand, the same is true of the Middle East as well, albeit nowhere near on the same scale, for understandable reasons: Syria’s wine industry, for example, has been crippled by war, and Turkey’s by overt hostility from its government. Surprisingly, however, at least one Palestinian winery, Taybeh, is still managing to export its products, as I discovered the other day at Akub in London (I especially enjoyed the Nadim, a herby white zeini).
A more reliable hunting ground is Lebanon, whose wines are very similar to those from the south of France, due to the influence of French winemakers during the 28-year French mandate (some of the country’s reds, such as the Chateau Oumsiyat Mijana below and the more famous Chateau Musar, which is sadly now out of my price range, also tend to include Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon).
Georgia doesn’t really count as the Middle East – it’s more the Caucasus – but the food is not dissimilar and its wines work really well with Middle Eastern food. Surprisingly, Marks & Spencer has one in its innovative Found range, a slightly nutty white called Mtsvane; the same store’s Agiorgitiko (£8, 13.5%), from Greece, would go well, too. In fact, Greek wines, which seem to have been popping up everywhere this summer, may well be your best bet here: I especially love the country’s zesty, citrussy, sometimes herby whites, such as vidiano, roditis and, of course, assyrtiko, all of which seem just as happy with grilled meat as they are with salads or dips.
Rosé is another good all-rounder for Middle Eastern meals, where several dishes are usually served at the same time. The Greeks make that, too, though the recently introduced 2021 Rosé de Xinomavro, a gorgeous, bronze-coloured rosé that’s not far off an orange wine, has already sold out at the Wine Society; the 2022 should be in later this month, though. In the meantime, try the Society’s G & L Moschofilero Roditis Agiorgitiko Rosé 2022, which, while not quite as interesting, is a bit of a snip at £8.95.
In fact, because Middle Eastern food is so wine-friendly, you don’t have to spend a fortune on a bottle to go with it, particularly if you’re drinking red. Côtes du Rhône ticks the box nicely, as does rioja, believe it or not (speaking of which, Asda has a well-priced reserva in its Extra Special range for £9, which is a bargain in these straitened times).
Six wines to drink with Middle Eastern food
M&S Found Mtsvane 2022 £9 (in store only), 13.5%. Appealingly earthy, slightly nutty Georgian white that would be great with a selection of meze.
Chateau Oumsiyat Mijana 2019 £9.49 Waitrose and Waitrose Cellar, 13%. OK, this is no Musar, but it’s a quarter of the price. An enjoyably quaffable and affordable Lebanese red that would be great with grilled lamb.
Les Hauts de Castelmaure Corbières Rosé 2022 £11.99 Majestic (£9.99 on mix six), 13.5%. If you like Provence rosé but don’t want to pay Provençal prices, this elegant Languedoc one is a great alternative.
Chateau Ksara Cuvée de Printemps 2021 £13.99 (on offer) allaboutwine.co.uk, £16.95 Secret Wine Cellar, 13%. Deliciously gluggable blend of gamay and tempranillo that tastes of wild cherries. Perfect with grilled veg or chicken.
Asprolithi Rouvalis 2021 £14.25 Maltby & Greek, £14.45 Wine Origins, 12%. Lovely, vivid organic Greek white from the Peloponnese. Fresh and citrussy, with a touch of thyme.
Fortnum & Mason Single Vineyard Vidiano 2022 £19.95, 13.5%. Posh Fortnum’s isn’t the first place you might think of buying Cretan wine, but I really loved this distinctive, herb-edged white which they’ve boldly put under their own label. Redolent of thyme, fennel, aniseed and mastika, it would be great with all kinds of meze.
For more by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
