While I love a good skincare routine, I’m a big proponent of using them as a supplement to in-office procedures. That being said, not everyone can afford to see a dermatologist for elective procedures that are not covered by insurance, which is why, to me, the growth of medical-grade, over-the-counter skincare products makes so much sense. It’s also why EGF—or epidermal growth factor—serums are having a moment right now.
EGFs have actually been around since the '60s, so they're definitely tried and tested, and backed by skincare professionals. As board-certified dermatologist Kseniya Kobets, MD, explains, “Epidermal growth factors are naturally occurring signaling proteins that help regulate skin repair. Think of it this way: EGFs work from the top layer of the skin down, while something like an FGF (or fibroblast growth factor) works on the inverse, at the dermis level on fibroblasts.”
But before you start buying all of the growth-factor-powered serums you can get your hands on, Dr. Kobets explains everything you need to know about the buzzy skincare ingredient. From the benefits that you can expect to see while using them to who actually would be the best recipient for these ingredients, keep reading for the need-to-know on the world of skin-repairing EGFs.
What Are the Benefits of Using Epidermal Growth Factors?
We’ve touched a bit on what EGFs are, but what exactly do they do? It turns out, they’re kind of like little personal trainers for your skin. “EGFs primarily work on epidermal cells in the outer layers of the skin,” Dr. Kobets says. “They help support skin renewal, barrier repair, and overall skin texture.” In short, the ingredient focuses on improving the skin’s surface and barrier, making it stronger and more resilient.
That said, most modern anti-aging skincare products that promote any variation of EGFs don't rely on the growth factors alone. “Most EGF serum formulas often contain a mixture of growth factors; cytokines, peptides, conditioned media, or exosome-derived signaling molecules, designed to mimic the complex communication network involved in wound healing and skin rejuvenation,” Dr. Kobets says. She adds that many EGF formulas on the market right now also also include barrier-supporting and hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, squalane, and ceramides, "which can make skin look and feel better almost immediately.”
The Best Epidermal Growth Factor Serums
I started using this serum recently, and I have to say: the glow it provides is next level thanks to ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, but it will also help to fade dark marks over time thanks to additional skincare powerhouses like niacinamide.
Next on my list to try is this EGF Power Serum from Bioeffect. It's one of the most highly-rated serums I've come across in my research (Beauty Director Hannah Baxter is also a major fan) thanks to a trifecta of ingredients: Barley EGF, Barley KGF (Keratinocyte Growth Factor), and NAG (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), all of which help to strengthen, hydrate, and reduce the appearance of fine lines on the skin, respectively.
Another highly rated serum, this one from Easydew utilizes niacinamide, glutathione, and tranexamic acid alongside EGFs to also help address the appearance of dark marks while it fortifies the skin barrier.
In my eyes, Medicube just gets it when it comes to effective skincare, so I will also be snagging this K-Beauty EGF formula which boasts NAD+ and collagen alongside EGFs. The duo helps to address firmness and elasticity, while also providing dewy, plump-looking skin.
Who Can Use Epidermal Growth Factors?
Technically speaking, anyone can use EGFs; however, some people may see results more readily than others. “They are a great addition to a skincare routine for patients who are noticing early to moderate signs of aging, including fine lines, loss of firmness, and dullness,” says Dr. Kobets. “They can also be a nice option for patients who want anti-aging benefits but cannot tolerate stronger ingredients like retinoids or exfoliating acids because of sensitive skin.”
If you don’t quite fall into that category but still want to try EGFs, there are a few things to keep in mind. “Rather than replacing proven ingredients like sunscreen, retinols, antioxidants, and barrier-enhancing moisturizers, EGFs work best as an additional layer of support and stimulation,” says Dr. Kobets. They also make a fantastic addition to your procedure aftercare routine, if approved by your dermatologist. Because in-office treatments such as microneedling temporarily disrupt the skin barrier, EGFs take advantage of the microchann
“It’s wonderful for use with microneedling, in particular, which creates microchannels in the skin that may enhance the penetration of topical, regenerative ingredients,” Dr. Kobets notes.
How Do I Use Epidermal Growth Factors?
“I typically recommend applying a growth factor serum once or twice daily after cleansing and before moisturizer,” Dr. Kobets says. “Think of it as one of the first leave-on products that goes onto the skin.”
Again, EGFs pair particularly well with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, squalane, niacinamide, and antioxidants. They can even be combined with retinoids. “The two work through different pathways and can complement one another,” she says. “Growth factor products may also help support the skin barrier, which can be helpful for patients who experience irritation from retinoids or exfoliating acids.”
That being said, if you notice your skin becoming sensitive when using EGFs with retinoids or stronger formulas like glycolic or salicylic acid products, use the acids during one of your skincare routines, either in the morning or at night, and EGFs in the other, as a precaution. The most important thing to note when using epidermal growth factors is to always pair it with daily sunscreen. “If you are investing in collagen-building skincare, protecting that collagen from UV damage is essential,” Dr. Kobets says.
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