I’d assumed Swedish Lapland would mean stylish chunky knits and chic fur hats, but I’ve just been strapped into a bright orange survival suit that consumes everything but my face. I’m an oversized traffic cone turned Teletubby – but thus goes the fashion when floating in icy Arctic waters.
I’m in Sweden’s far north, trying to pre-empt a northern lights no-show by diving (literally) into more Earthly adventures. Basing myself around coastal Luleå (with help from specialist holiday company The Aurora Zone, I soon find I can swim, sled and sauna without ever driving much more than an hour. And the northern lights I’d travelled to see? A distant memory.
