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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Lucy Knight

The age of tiramisu: a runaway dessert trend – and what it reveals about nostalgia and decadence

A head and shoulders of a young woman with short curly brown hair wearing a denim short-sleeved shirt -  side on to camera looking round smiling with mouth wide open with a pot of green cream in a glass pot with the words  'Marrone
Just tiramisu … Lucy Knight tucks in at Marrone, London. Photograph: David Levene/The Guardian

When Giancarlo Fanigliulo opened Marrone, a cafe dedicated to tiramisu in London’s Soho in August, he hadn’t anticipated he would sell out within two and a half hours. “I was expecting a buzz, but I wasn’t expecting queues around the corner,” he tells me. “It was insane.”

This kind of excitement about the Italian dessert is not a one-off – we are, it seems, living in an age of tiramisu-mania. Nearly all of the high street coffee chains have offered some kind of tiramisu coffee as a seasonal special (in the US, Dunkin’ currently has four different tiramisu-flavoured drinks on its menu). Meanwhile, Haagen-Dazs and Carte D’or now sell tiramisu ice-cream, London chain Buns from Home offers a tiramisu-flavoured croissant-dough bun and social media is awash with tiramisu recipes and videos of “tiramisu drawers” – trays of the dessert ready to serve out of drawers in chefs’ kitchens – as popularised by the viral one at Manchester pasta restaurant Onda.

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