The menswear shows have flooded Paris and Milan, only coming to close last night.
And while it was the F’rows that hit headlines – Timothée Chalamet at Loewe! Kylie Jenner at Margiela! David Beckham at Dior! – there was plenty of inspiration to be taken from the catwalk. And most pleasingly of all, you might have some of AW23’s staples hanging in the wardrobe already.
These are the top takeaways to look chic this year, boys:
The biker slacks
You’ve got your vintage, racing leather jacket – but have you the trousers to match? In Milan, Gucci sent out a butter-smooth, plain black pair with statement knee pads, worn with a matching jacket and subtle, slip ons mules. At Marine Serre they came spliced with orange and snake print accents, Seoul based label Juun.J, who showed an entirely biker-inspired collection which included distressed leather slacks and classic motorcycle trousers in denim, while Dsquared2 added a shot of blue and red for a speed demon, Formula One style.
Tartan tailoring
The Scottish cloth was a mainstay throughout the European collections, led by Glaswegian designer Charles Jeffrey who held his first Loverboy show in Milan this season. His signature blue and red check was dressed down with rugby shirts, striped cardigans and yellow face paint. Recently appointed Etro creative director Marco de Vincenzo did sleek, Savile Row style suits and Kenzo designer Nigo offered similarly smart tartan: triple-button checked blazers, slacks and overcoats dressed up with shirts and checker ties. But it was KidSuper, who guest designed for Louis Vutton in lieu of a permanent replacement for Virgil Abloh, who had most fun, slicing up the check to trippy effect.
Keep it brief
It might not be a look for everyone, but leg-baring looks were unmissable on this season’s catwalks. At JW Anderson’s Milan show, bare legged models in shearling trimmed underwear and shearling jackets outnumbered those sporting slacks. Elsewhere, JordanLuca collaborated with JD Sports favourite Lonsdale to make their white briefs which were layered under a butterfly print dress. The craze gripped Paris too, at Lazoschmidl who made paired tight black pants worn with hoodies and floral raincoats, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin, where logo underwear was visible through white mesh, figure-hugging dresses. Again, one for the braver souls.
The 70s collar
They didn’t sweep every collection, but Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons bet big on pointy collars at the Prada show in Milan. And if Miuccia and Raf call a trend, they’re invariably bang on the money. Prada’s were detachable in a variety of colour pop shades with contrast mohair panels. There versatilty was noteable: tucked into boxy blazers, knee-length overcoats and snug cardigans. How much will these slip-on collars retail for? That was the question swirling online afterwards. Consensus – around £500. If that seems eye-watering, head to the closest vintage shop for an endless supply of large collared shirts. If you feel inclined to stay loyal to the Prada look, just reach for the scissors.
Disco vests
Amongst the more predicable waves of navy and camel coloured menswear staples, a little glitz stands out. Perhaps most surprising this season were the disco ball, sequin tank tops that cropped up. One of Gucci’s closing looks set the tone - a sparkling silver tank dressed down with grubby jeans, green, monogram cowboy boots and a blue beanie. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s mesh, rhinestone-encrusted style had more of a Dalston Superstore clubland appeal, while Dolce and Gabbana nailed the black tie version: a jet shade sequin, polo neck vest with matching, flowing trousers. One for Timothée Chalamet this awards season perhaps?
All wrapped up
At the most established houses, huge, draped blankets swathed some of the best looks. Fendi’s opening grey outfit came with a half geometric patterned, cashmere shawl wrapped asymmetrically and tunic-style around the body. Giorgio Armani’s grey and navy chevron weave throw came with a fluffy fur collar, while at Paul Smith it was an all-out cape that stole focus: maroon, orange and brown splodges covered an almost floor length poncho, doubled up with a wide, matching print scarf. Not a bad option for tackling the sub-arctic temperatures in the city this January.
