It was mid-December 2020 when Jimi Famurewa had the call that he would be the Standard’s new chief restaurant critic. With London as it was then — an accordion of a city, opening and closing, everyone in and out — it may have looked an inauspicious time to take the column.
But Famurewa was already by then an old hand, having written the ES Magazine reviews since 2018. And so what followed for this paper was a weekly sequence of thoughtful, considered writing, sometimes joyful and exuberant, at other moments the written equivalent of a despairing and exhausted sigh.
