The beautiful beaches of Newcastle in New South Wales are famous. But locals know where the real magic is: the ocean baths, of which our town is blessed with two. These large, open-air saltwater pools, nestled in the natural rock platforms of the coastline, have welcomed swimmers, walkers, sunbathers, photographers and birdwatchers at all hours of the day, for more than a century – including generations of my family.
There’s Merewether baths – the largest ocean baths in the southern hemisphere – where my grandpa taught my dad and his siblings to swim. But my heart belongs to the Newcastle ocean baths over in the East End. The grand art deco facade, enough to make you catch your breath as you come round the bend of Shortland Esplanade, looks like a portal to another world – and passing through its heritage-listed threshold, you discover just that.
